Happy 2017 everyone! These are my empties from November and December of 2016:
I’ve been agonizing over this review for quite some time now because, well, do you guys remember this song?
When I shop for second cleansers, I have a list of deal breakers and pitfalls, such as having a high pH, producing foam, sodium lauryl sulfate or papain, because my skin doesn’t tolerate those things well. This cleanser avoids every single one of those, and trust me, not many cleansers do. Yet, I still don’t like this cleanser. I mean, what’s my problem right?
At a Glance
ACWELL BUBBLE-FREE PH BALANCING CLEANSER
Price: $20 at Memebox, $22 at MelodyCosme, and $24 at ViaSeoul
Packaging: White, plastic pump bottle
Fragrance: Fresh, astringent smell. I think it’s supposed to smell like Yuzu but it reminds me of toothpaste. Not a fan.
Color: Cloudy / sheer
Texture: Soft gel
pH: Claims to be 5.5. My pH strips test closer to 5.0.
Acne Triggers & Irritants: Triethanolamine (2) flagged as an acne trigger
Full Ingredients: Purified Water, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Dipropylene Glycol, Ethanol, PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone, Benzyl Alcohol, Triethanolamine, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel Extract), Dehydroacetic Acid, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium EDTA, Glycyrrhiz Glbra (Licorice Root Extract), Paeonia Lactiflora Bark / Sap Extract, Paeonia Lactiflora Extract, Cimicifuga Dahurica Root Extract, Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract, Cimicifuga Simplex Root Extract, Pueraria Lobata Root Extract, Salicylic Acid, Farnesyl Acetate, Farnesol, Panthenyl Triacetate, Fragrance
This cleanser can be used as both a first cleanser, by applying to dry skin, and second cleanser, by applying to wet skin.
What’s good about it is that it is effective. As a first cleanser, it will take off pretty much all of your makeup and sunscreen. The texture has a lot of slip, so you can work it into and around your skin with very little physical tugging. Also, one of the reasons I was so keen on trying this Acwell bubble free cleanser is because it’s been reported on more than one occasion to delodge grits from congested pores. I’ve not been able to replicate this effect (but I’ve never really been able to extract grits because my skin is stubborn like that), but it contains salicylic acid (a oil-soluble chemical exfoliant) and feels very deeply cleansing, so I don’t doubt it’s skin decongesting powers.
Even as a second cleanser, I feel like my skin gets a thorough cleaning. If my skin were able to handle this cleanser better, it would be exactly the kind of cleanser I would want to use after hitting the gym or for hot, sweaty summer months.
Unfortunately, this cleanser is unexpectedly harsh. It’s weird, because the cleanser is not drying – my skin does not feel tight after using it – but it is nonetheless stripping. After use, my skin feels raw and rubbery, as if I’ve been vigorously scrubbing at it. Also, depending on how long I’ve had the cleanser on my face, it makes my skin noticeably redder. In the pictures above, you can even see the reddening effect on my hand from leaving the cleanser on for too long.
The suspected culprits? Ethanol and/or triethanolamine. My skin actually tolerates alcohol pretty well – most of the sunscreens I use contain it- but during cleansing, the skin is at a particularly vulnerable state, and at the 4th ingredient this cleanser likely contains a generous amount of ethanol. Triethanolamine, on the other hand, is a compound that could function as an emulsifier, pH adjuster (triethanolamine has a high pH), and/or surfactant.
This is probably a perfectly good cleanser for most skin types. Unfortunately, my skin is either too dry or too sensitive to use this.
Disclaimer: This product was purchased by me. This post contains an affiliate links. Purchasing an item through an affiliate link does not add any cost to the customer but does help support this site’s upkeep.
RoseRoseShop sent me the Benton TT Mist for review purposes. The opinions expressed are my own. The LJH Mist was purchased by me.
I had initially decided to do a comparison review of these two products because I expected them to be very similar. After all, they both contain high amounts of tea tree water – 70% in the LJH mist, 80% in Benton- and let’s be honest, who wants to read two FULL reviews of nearly identical mists?
However, after spending some time with both products (7 weeks with Benton and 4 with LJH), I’ve realized that not only are these products very different from each other, they are also some of the most overachieving mists I’ve used! My initial expectations were completely off base and I couldn’t be more thrilled!
Without further ado, here are the two tea tree mists:
At a Glance
BENTON HONEST TT MIST
Price: $5.96 on RoseRoseShop, $8.48 on Jolse, $12.13 on Cosmetic-Love, $6 on Memebox (get another 8% off all Memebox orders from TopCashBack)
Packaging: Soft plastic, non-aerosol spray tube
Fragrance: None detected
Acne Triggers & Irritants: Butylene Glycol (1) is an acne trigger
Full Ingredients: Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Water (80%), Sodium Hyaluronate (7%), Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Extract (5%), Butylene Glycol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Althaea Rosea Root Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Beta-Glucan, Polyglutamic Acid, Aspalathus Linearis (rooibos) Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Psidium Guajava (guava) Extract, Zanthoxylum Piperitum (Japanese pepper) Fruit Extract, Pulsatilla Koreana Extract, Usnea Barbata (lichen) Extract
LEEJIHAM (LJH) TEA TREE 70 MIST TONER
Price: $27 on HKCPlaza (currently 60% off), $33 on Birchbox, $33 on Glow Recipe (get $5 off your first order), $33 on Memebox (get another 8% off all Memebox orders from TopCashBack)
Packaging: Hard plastic, cylindrical spray bottle
Fragrance: Tea tree scent of light – medium strength
Acne Triggers & Irritants: Butylene Glycol (1) is an acne trigger
Full Ingredients: Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Extract (70%), DI-Water, Niacinamide, Sorbitol, Humectants, Disodium EDTA, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Illicium Verum (Anise) Fruit Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Butylene Glycol, Rhus Semialata Gall Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract, Oleanolic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Fruit Extract
The production value of the LJH mist is really high in every way! The packaging looks unexceptional in photos but is much more impressive in person. It’s larger than I expected, made of a sturdy plastic, and looks quite sleek. The misting mechanism is top notch as well, releasing a consistent, finely dispersed amount of product with each pump. On the skin, the LJH mist has a lot of slip, absorbs quickly, and doesn’t leave any residue. It’s a very well formulated product from both an ingredients and cosmetic elegance point of view. It does smell very slightly of tea tree, which I dislike but I feel like most people wouldn’t give it a second thought.
By contrast, the Benton TT mist did not make the best first impression. The soft plastic tube, while practical in its portability, is mostly unremarkable, and the mist that comes out is way too dense and forceful! I actually stopped using it as a mist, for the most part, choosing instead to spray into my hands then patting onto my face. Also, the liquid that comes out feels exactly like water, which made me extremely suspicious that this mist would be a repeat of the CosRX centella water toner, which not only felt like water but was about as effective as water.
Here’s a video that shows how different the mists that each of these products produce are:
However, after spending some time with both mists, the Benton mist has completely won me over while the LJH mist sits mostly unused in my stash.
The LJH is not a bad product by any means. It’s a light-to-medium strength astringent toner with some moisturizing properties, likely from the niacinamide it includes. I think it would be a great product for oily but dehydrated skin types, but it’s not something that suits my skin type very well. I also think it has slightly too much slip, but that’s probably a personal hangup.
The Benton mist on the other hand, is neither astringent (this is a VERY good thing for dry skin) nor hydrating, but is remarkable in how effectively it calms my skin. My skin is very prone to redness and inflammation, especially on my cheeks and around my nose. Using this Benton TT mist not only reduces visible redness immediately, but after a few weeks of consistent usage, my face has been generally less prone to redness. If you’ve got sensitive or easily irritated skin, I can’t recommend this enough. It is also extremely gentle (again, it feels like water) and has become the first product I reach for on days when my skin is irritated, sensitive, and/or over-exfoliated.
In short, the Benton mist is perfect for my skin’s needs! I don’t even mind the lack of moisturizing power, because I’ve got tons of other products in my routine to do that. What I don’t have is another product that can soothe my skin nearly as effectively. The only complaint I have with this product is the misting nozzle.
Despite a rocky start, the Benton TT mist has earned a long-term spot in my skincare routine. It is neither astringent nor moisturizing, but has remarkable anti-inflammatory effects on my skin. The LJH mist would be a good product for oily but dehydrated skin types (I think) but does not suit my skin type.
Disclaimer: The Benton TT mist was provided to me for review purposes by RoseRoseShop. The opinions expressed are my own. The LJH Mist was purchased by me. This post contains affiliate links. See here for my full disclosure policy.
I’ve been using Curology, formerly known as Pocketderm, for six months now and felt I couldn’t put off doing this review any longer, so here we are!
In this post I have before and after photos for the three prescriptions I’ve gone through and some thoughts on what I think is good and bad about Curology.
What is Curology:
Curology is an internet dermatologist service that treats acne and aging. You are assigned a dermatologist and communicate with him or her purely through the built in Curology messaging service and by uploading photos. Their scope is very limited – they only deal with acne and anti-aging concerns, but where they win is accessibility. You can communicate with your doctor at any hours of the day by sending messages and, from my experience, you will receive a response quickly.
Does it Work?
PRESCRIPTION # 1
Weeks 1 – 7 // 1% clinamycin, 4% niacinamide, 4% azelaic acid
I apologize these are not the best photos – I had no plans of posting pictures of my acne-ridden face on the internet when I was taking them. Please note that picture 1 is not my skin at its worst. Months of BHA usage and AHA usage had gone a long way in getting my cystic acne under control and fade some of the worst post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
That said, I did not have a lot of luck with my first prescription. I have inflammatory acne and the main active ingredients here, niacinamide and azelaic acid, are supposed to have anti-inflammatory effects. Unfortunately, I saw little change in my skin. The hyperpigmentation I had on my face was still fading at a frustratingly slow speed and I was still getting some pretty large breakouts that resulted in even more hyperpigmentation. I kept messaging my provider and asking when I should be seeing results, and her consistent response was give it 6 weeks. After 6 weeks and I was still breaking out at my pre-Curology rate, she changed up my prescription to include tretinoin.
Weeks 8 – 12 // 1% clinamycin, 8% azelaic acid, .018% tretinoin
YES IT WORKS! The first 1-2 weeks were hard. Because tretinoin can be super irritating, I had to stop using AHAs and BHAs completely, which initially resulted in more breakouts. As the tretinoin did its work, the breakouts not only slowed, but became increasingly less common! Not only that, but the dark pigmentation I have all over my cheeks from previous breakouts were fading at a record rate! About a month after starting this new prescription, my skin was at a point where I previously did not think possible just a few weeks before.
The downside of this prescription, as mentioned earlier, is that it was extremely harsh on my skin. My skin was shedding at an insane rate, which I’ve previously talked about here. Not only that, but my skin became uncharacteristically sensitive. EVERYTHING I tried to put on my skin, from cleansers to toners to moisturizers, made it burn. After talking to my dermatologist, I decided to only use the prescription every three days. At this frequency, the cream was still as effective against my acne but it was no longer fading my pigmentation as quickly as before. I figured I would rather live with slightly slower-disappearing hyperpigmentation than constant flaking, so that is ok.
Weeks 13 – present // 4% azelaic acid, .017% tretinoin, .25% zinc pyrithione:
After a month with my second prescription, my dermatologist adjusted my prescription to have less azelaic acid and slightly less tretinoin due to the terrible flaking I was still getting. She also threw in zinc pyrithione, which is an ingredient commonly used in anti-dandruff shampoos but it also effective in reducing fungal (gross, sorry) acne. This is the prescription I am currently on! So far as I can tell, it is equal in effectiveness to prescription 2, slightly less harsh, but has a better consistency (prescription 2 had a strange texture). I use it every 2 or 3 days, depending on how sensitive my skin feels. I still get acne occassionally, but they are very shallow breakouts that clear up in a day or two.
Having a medical professional to email back and forth is really awesome! I think I sent my practitioner and email every time there was a change in my skin, just to ask if the change was normal and whether it was a good change or bad change. As someone who had previously been trying to “solve” my acne by blindly following advice I found on the internet, this was a huge step up.
Also, obviously, Curology works, or at least it does for me. My skin is still not 100%, but I am so incredibly happy with it! I can go out and buy groceries without wearing foundation or concealer, which 6 months ago I NEVER would have even thought of doing. Also, when my first prescription wasn’t giving me results, my doctor gave me a clear time line of when I could try something stronger and she stuck to that timeline. That to me demonstrates great accountability.
The Ugly and the Bad
As mentioned earlier, some of the prescriptions I received were very, very harsh on my skin. The constant skin shedding led to a few very stressful weeks at work where I was constantly ducking in and out of the bathroom to try to brush off any visible dead skin on my face. I work in a fairly formal environment and was a little surprised that no one reprimanded me for how terrible my skin looked at that time.
What was even worse than the flaking for me were the sensitivity issues. There were a few days where my skin was burning so intensely that it was almost unbearable. I couldn’t clean or moisturize my face without it burning and turning bright red. Even products designed for super sensitive skin irritated my skin and I was terrified that this was how my skin would be forever.
The other issue I had with Curology is some of the responses I received to my questions were obviously canned responses. They were relevant, very informative canned responses, so this is not a major issues at all, but just something I thought worthy of pointing out.
Should You Try Curology?
If you have acne, give Curology a try. It might not work, but I’d say odds are good and at the very least you have a medical professional on your team helping you get to the bottom of your acne.
If I could go back and change ONE thing about my experience with Curology, it would be that I wish I had signed up earlier, because not only would I be that many months ahead in my recovery, but I also would have that many months less of pigmentation issues from acne.
How to Sign Up
You can get a month of Curology for free by using a referral link. When I signed up, the free month included a 3 month (30ml) prescription, but I think its been reduced to a 1 month (10ml) prescription now. If you want to sign up, here is an entire page of stranger’s links you can use, or you can look for mine in the sidebar.
And if you do give Curology a try, please please let me know how it goes!
You guys may have noticed that this blog has been neglected for a few weeks now. This is not because I’ve given up on skincare or blogging, but simply because both my skin and its care routine are under-going some changes right now. Namely, after a lot of pussyfooting around the idea of prescription skincare, I signed up for Curology (previously Pocketderm) and after TWO MONTHS they finally put me on tretinoin. Woot!
This means two things:
- The routine I’ve been using for the past couple of months? It needs an update. It is severely lacking in moisturizing agents because summer has been strangely kind to my dry skin.
- Also, just like the doctor ordered, I’m off of AHAs and BHAs. Tretinoin has made my skin uncharacteristically sensitive so I imagine it’s going to take some time before I can reintroduce them. This has been a difficult adjustment, to say the least. Without BHAs keeping my acne in check, I’ve been dealing with more breakouts and longer lasting breakouts, operating on the faith that Curology / Pocketderm would take care of it, with mixed results.
What is Curology and My Experience So Far
Curology is an internet dermatologist service that treats acne and aging. You are assigned a dermatologist and communicate with him or her purely through the built in Curology messaging service and by uploading photos. The scope of what they do is obviously very limited compared to an in-person dermatologist (you’re still going to need a real dermatologist for any skin cancer concerns or services such as cryotherapy) but where they win is accessibility. You can communicate with your doctor at any hours of the day by sending messages and, from my experience, you will receive a response quickly.
I realize I haven’t really mentioned my experience with Curology / Pocketderm very much up until now. There’s a good reason for this: my first prescription really didn’t do much.
I started using Pocketderm in July and my first prescription composed of 1% clinamycin, 4% niacinamide, and 4% azelaic acid. At the 7-8 week mark, my doctor took out the niacinamide, doubled the azelaic acid content to 8%, and added .018% tretinoin. I don’t know if 7-8 weeks is the usual amount of waiting time to get a stronger prescription, but I imagine my constant pestering, photo uploading, and question asking of my doctor might have something to do with it. My doctor, to her credit, was very patient and thorough in all of her correspondances with me. Even though my first prescription did not perform as I had hoped, I still think Pocketderm is worth every penny because having a doctor to freely email with skincare questions is really awesome. Who knew I had fungal acne and inflammatory lesions on my face? WebMD can’t diagnose that sh*t.
I received my upgraded Pocketderm cream three weeks ago. My doctor suggested I start using it every three days while using the old prescription on my days off. After two weeks, I finally bumped up my frequency to every other day.
It’s too early to tell how effective this new prescription will be, but it’s definitely doing something. My face feels raw and even products that have been firmly established in my routine are now causing redness. It’s a little unnerving, but I’m excited to see what happens!
Btw, you can try one month of Curology for free by using my invite here. After that, it’s $19.95 a month.
With my first Curology prescription, there was virtually no change to my skin. I had no sensitivity (even though I kept using AHAs and BHAs in my routine), no changes in dryness, and also no changes in my acne. Two days into my new prescription, my skin started peeling off at an alarming rate!
My skin was peeling in the way that skin peels a few days after a terrible sunburn. The parts of my skin that weren’t mid-flake looked like scales. This isn’t your normal dry-skin flakiness, this was my face shedding an entire layer of skin. The area around my nose and mouth looked the worst but the flakiness extended all the way up my cheeks.
Three weeks in, I have my flakiness mostly under control. It’s still an ongoing issue, but no longer a cause for social awkwardness! Here are the anti-flaking rules I’ve been following that have made all the difference:
Rules for Keeping Flaking at a Minimum:
1.) Forget ALL Chemical Exfoliants – No AHAs, No BHAs, and No LAAs
My assigned dermatologist had instructed I put a pause on using AHAs and BHAs because my skin may be too sensitive as it adjusts to tretinoins. However, another reason to avoid chemical exfoliants is because they make the flakiness so much worse. A few days into tretinoin, my skin was feeling sensitive enough that I thought reducing l-Ascorbic Acid (LAA) usage might be a good idea. This didn’t help with my new sensitivity issues, but it did reduce the flakiness I was getting by a significant amount. Even though it’s not as effective as an AHA or BHA, LAA does exfoliate at a low enough pH. It seems obvious in retrospect, but when your skin is flaking off at an alarming rate, it probably doesn’t need the assistance of additional chemical exfoliants.
2.) Get A Konjac Sponge STAT
While chemical exfoliation is a definite no-go, gentle physical exfoliation can make a world of difference by preemptively removing loose skin before it starts to flake! Konjac sponges are the gentlest, least irritating way to physically exfoliate the skin. Gommage exfoliators such as the ever-popular Cure Natural Aqua Gel would probably work as well, but konjac sponges are cheaper, easier to use, and pose no risk of comedogenesis! I stock up on Konjac sponges when I place orders with Koreadepart. They are also available on amazon.
3.) DO NOT TOUCH Your Skin
It is really difficult to notice flakiness on your skin and not to brush it away, but trust me touching will only make things worse! Every time I touch my skin, more flakiness will magically appear, even if my skin looked stable before the touching. I now avoid looking too closely in mirrors when I am not at home and bring makeup remover wipes with me everywhere, so if I mess up and trigger more flaking, I can at least wipe the mess away and reapply makeup to patch things up.
4.) Is Your Current Moisturizer Satisfying All Your Needs? It’s Time To Get Serious About Hydration!
Moisturizing seems like a no brainer, but this is the time to ditch poor and mid-level performing moisturizers. As someone with dry skin, I can write an entire treatise on why most moisturizers suck, but that’s for another day. The point is you need a moisturizer that works. You aren’t necessarily looking for something super heavy – the dryness issues from tretinoin are internal so the goal here is different than say, protecting your skin from Chicago winters, but you do want something that can seal in hydration. My current go-to moisturizing products are the Neogen Dermatology Dual Layer Ceramide Oil and Caolion Mucin’s Cream Water.
The Neogen ceramide oil is bottle full of half essence and half oil. To use, you shake the bottle and then use the dripper cap to extract the product. The instructions say to use 4 drops, but I fill the entire dripper and use it all. Despite its high oil content, it does not leave my face feeling heavy, sticky, or greasy nor does it leave my face looking shiny. In fact, it dries matte. It also layers beautifully with other products and seals in moisture like a champ! I use this in the mornings after applying toner and essence and before sunscreen. No emulsion or other hydration steps needed!
Caolion Mucin’s Cream Water is a newer addition to my routine but it is one of the 5 snail creams I’ve been testing against each other (with the help of my water / oil analyzer!) and the one that moisturizes best by far. This cream is not heavy but it does leave a tacky (but not sticky) feeling on my skin, one that almost feels like a makeup primer. It feels more protective but less reparative than the Neogen ceramide oil, and I haven’t been using it as much right now but I imagine it will become my go-to moisturizer when things get colder and windier!
When my skin is feeling especially dry, my go-to remedy has been sheet masks, but not just any sheet masks, horse fat sheet masks! Fiddy, the ultimate fairy snail mother, sent me with two Guerisson hydrogels and I immediately fell in love and purchased a bunch more plus some other horse masks that looked promising! On my skin, horse oil is pretty much magic. It hydrates / maintains hydration and makes my skin baby soft, all without feeling like I have anything on my face at all!
At the end of the day, there’s still a good amount of loose dead skin on my face, which becomes painfully obvious when I’m oil cleansing and I can feel it peel off and bunch up in the oil. When this first started happening, I excitedly thought that maybe I was getting grits, but alas, it’s just skin. It’s pretty gross but as long as it isn’t super visible throughout the day, I’m pretty happy!
Has anyone else had issues with flakiness after starting tretinoin? What are your tips for dealing with it?
WHY I BOUGHT IT
Remember my review on Chica y Chico’s Beta Salic 2.0? Well (knocks on wood), since I started using it, I have not had a single recurrence of cystic acne. I do still get closed comedones, but even those are less frequent. Needless to say, BHAs are totally my jam right now. They’re the security blanket ingredient of my skincare routine and my second deserted-island skincare essential, after sunscreen of course. The reason I wanted to swap out Beta Salic 2.0 with something new? I wanted something STRONGER. I also wanted something without glycolic acid. I’m currently using a lactic acid toner, which has been a bit harsh recently, and I thought removing glycolic acid, even in small quantities, may help.
But back to salicylic acid. Products in Korea are limited to containing only .5% salicylic acid. A lot of brands deal with this restriction by using betaine salicylate, a mild complex of salicylic acid, instead. This means to get my grabby hands on stronger BHA products out there, I have to look outside Korea. I have had my eye on this salicylic face milk from DHC for some time and since I was running out of BS2.0, finally decided to order it!
WHERE I PURCHASED IT
I bought this as part of a Rakuten haul. It is also available in the states with a markup on DHC’s website or on Amazon. I cannot actually confirm with 100% certainty that the Japanese version and the US version are the same. Japan does not require products to label active ingredients (this goes with vitamin C products and sunscreen active ingredients as well) and the US DHC customer service team was pretty much worthless when I repeatedly asked, sending me the link to http://www.dhc.co.jp/ three times. However, the ingredient lists are identical so chances are good that the two are and for the purposes of this review I am going to assume they are.
Comes in a small, flat, blue tube with a small spout. The product itself has a light cream texture. Its thinner than beta salic 2.0, but not quite what I would consider milky.
There are two major differences between this cream and beta salic 2.0: First of all, I mentioned that with beta salic 2.0, I only experienced minimal purging. With this face milk? Holy starfish! I had zits erupting on my face non-stop for about a week.
On one hand, I’m happy this stuff is working. On the other hand, I kept having to duck into the bathroom at work to make sure I didn’t have to reapply my makeup (again) to cover up the warzone that was my face. Thankfully, this purging calmed down greatly after the first couple of days and stopped altogether by the end of the second week.
The second difference is that there is a noticeable anti-inflammatory effect with this cream that I did not experience with beta salic 2.0. Minutes after applying this, my problem areas were noticeably less red.
I was concerned my dry skin would not be able to handle the increased BHA concentration, but I had no issues whatsoever! I think this is partly due to DHC SFM being well formulated and partially due to the fact I’ve been using a BHA (albiet a mild one) for more than two months before using this. Here are the ingredients, with cosdna acne triggers and irritants thusly indicated:
AQUA, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, CETYL ETHYLHEXANOATE, SORBITAN STEARATE, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, GLYCERYL STEARATE, PEG-60 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL, CYCLOPENTASILOXANE, PPG-12/SMDI COPOLYMER, SALICYLIC ACID, TRIETHANOLAMINE, PHENOXYETHANOL, SUCROSE COCOATE, CETEARETH-20, VITIS VINIFERA (GRAPE) SEED OIL, SCLEROTIUM GUM, ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS (ROSEMARY) LEAF OIL, DIMETHICONE, XANTHAN GUM, PANTHENOL, CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACT, ROYAL JELLY EXTRACT, SCUTELLARIA BAICALENSIS ROOT EXTRACT, PERILLA OCYMOIDES LEAF EXTRACT, HOUTTUYNIA CORDATA EXTRACT, ALOE BARBADENSIS LEAF EXTRACT, GLYCINE SOJA (SOYBEAN) SEED EXTRACT
This is when things start to get interesting. After a month of using this milk, I finally got my hands on some pH testing strips. This item has a purported pH of 3.8 but the pH strips I have were telling a different story.
Granted, these pH strips are not the most reliable way to measure pH, but I tested this cream a few times and consistently got a reading suggesting the pH is around 4.5. For a BHA, a pH of 4.5 is really high.
From everything I understood about BHAs, this product should not be exfoliating my skin in any significant way. Yet, the effects I was seeing with this product, particularly the purging, are difficult to attribute to anything else. This lead to some frantic googling and pubmed searching to find possible explanations, of which I have three!
Possible explanation #1:
Salicylic acid at close to neutral pH (mostly in its neutralized form as salicylate, pH 6.50) exerted a corneodesmolytic activity as good as that of salicylic acid in an acidic vehicle (pH 3.12) after only two days of application… In conclusion, neutralized salicylic acid at a 1% concentration is a suitable exfoliant agent for subjects with sensitive skin.
For those of you who don’t know what corneodesmolytic activity is (because I sure as hell didn’t), I did some digging. According to Acne and it Therapy:
Corneodesmolytic… results in desquamation due to degradation of corneodesmosomes, which are proteinaceous complexes that effectively rivet corneocytes together.
Uhhhhhhh ok so some translation is in order! Here’s the dumbed down version:
Corneodesmolytic… results in [the shedding of the outermost membrane of skin] due to degradation of [proteins that hold [epidermis skin cells] together], which are proteinaceous complexes that effectively rivet [epidermis skin cells] together.
In short, I’m pretty certain corneodesmolytic is science jargon for exfoliation (or at least a certain type of exfoliation), which means the study is effectively claiming salicylic acid at a pH of 6.5 exfoliates as well as salicylic acid at 3.12. This is just one study but it seems like a compelling reason to reconsider the requirement that salicylic acid products need to possess a pH under 4.
Possible Explanation #2
A simpler explanation is basic math. Salicylic acid is recommended for use in concentrations of .5% of 2%. The upper limit of the range is 4X the lower limit, so perhaps the high amount of salicylic acid in this product allows for it to still be effective at a higher pH.
At a pH of 4.5, 2.87% of salicylic acid will be in free-acid form. For this product, this means 2% X 2.87% or .057% of this face milk is free salicylate acid.
So, we can calculate what % of the hydroxy acid needs to be in free acid form in a hypothetical .5% concentration BHA product to effectively have the same amount of free acid as our DHC product as thus: .057% / .5% = 11.48%. Using the same chart, we can see that a pH of 3.5 corresponds to 22.79% of salicylic acid being in free acid form and a pH of 4 corresponds to 8.54% free acid. 11.48% lands between 22.79% and 8.54%, being obviously closer to 8.54.
This means our 2% salicylic milk with a pH of 4.5 effectively has the same amount of free salicylate acid as a .5% salicylic acid product with a pH between 3.5 and 4 but closer to 4. If you think about it this way, the pH is still higher than optimal, but within a more acceptable range. Cosrx’s very popular BHA product, after all, has a pH of 4.0.
Possible Explanation #3
As mentioned earlier, pH strips are not super accurate. Salicylic Face Milk also contains a few oils, which may or may not complicate how well the strips work. If anyone else has this product and wants to give a pH test a go, I’d love to hear what the results are!
Back to the product. I like this product and I think it’s effective, despite its higher pH, but it’s not perfect. First, it smells a little bit like tiger balm to me (menthol-like). I think this is due to one of the extracts (probably Perilla Ocymoides Leaf Extract). I grew up with Tiger Balm and find it strangely comforting, but its definitely an acquired smell. Also, I like to use my acids in the morning and as the weather has gotten warmer, I suspect this product is making my face greasy. This face milk is not oily but leaves a bit of a film. For whatever reason, if I use this at night, I don’t notice the film, but in the mornings I have to be careful about how much I apply. This brings me to my third complaint. The instructions advise to apply the salicylic milk all over your face and to do so one to three times a day. Three times is definitely excessive and seems like it could easily lead to over-exfoliation. I would instead use this once a day at maximum and if using in the mornings, only use as a spot treatment or on problem areas to prevent excess greasiness or skin flakiness.
I have been using this product since mid-June and my face is noticeably less bumpy and inflammed. It seems stronger and slightly more effective at getting my breakouts under control than BS2.0, but I don’t think I like it better. Regardless, BHAs definitely have earned a firm spot in my routine. Even though I still have acne, BHAs have taken my face from pus-volcano-covered-mess-that-makes-me-never-want-to-leave-the-house to blemished-but-with-makeup-I-can-be-a-functional-human-being. When I first started breaking out, I became more self-conscious and ashamed of my physical appearance than I’ve ever been in my life. BHAs have not (yet) restored my blemish-free face, but it cleared things up enough to restore my self-confidence.
Gentle (no flaking or increased sensitivity) yet effective (hello purging) BHA with impressive anti-inflammatory properties but possibly questionable pH. If you’re looking for an Asian BHA product with more than .5% salicylic acid, this is a fantastic candidate!
- higher pH
- menthol-like fragrance
- feels filmy in warmer weather
- DHC’s instructions seem very ill-advised
Having an army of Asian Beauty animal friends is a dream of mine, so I am not even going to pretend like I bought this for any other reason than the bear shaped bottle. Only after I bought it did I realize that this sunscreen is alcohol free! I have heard multiple times alcohol-free sunscreens may be more appropriate for my skin type, so let’s find out!
Salicylic acid, a Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA), is a magical ingredient. It is derived from willow tree bark and like Alpha Hydroxy acids (i.e. lactic acid and glycolic acid), it is frequently used as a chemical exfoliant. However, while AHAs are water-soluble and work on the outer layer of your skin, BHAs are oil-soluble, allowing them to get into your pores. For this reason, they are frequently recommended for oily-skinned folks and commonly touted for their ability to shrink pores.
As a dry-skinned girl, I have a tortured relationship with BHAs. I want to experience salicylic acid’s magical, anti-inflammatory, pore-cleaning effects, but a lot of products I have tried in the past have proved to be too harsh. Specifically, I gave certain salicylic-acid-containing pads a try a few years ago only to have my face turn beet red and, when I frantically attempt to rinse the product off my face, I couldn’t. It was the worst feeling in the world and all I could do was sit around, hoping my face didn’t burn off, until the burning subsided.
Turns out, salicylic acid is pretty heavily regulated in Korea (there’s a .5% formulation limit) and as such, many Korean skincare products, including Korean formulations of Paula’s Choice products, use betaine salicylate instead. Even if you don’t know anything about chemistry, you may have noticed betaine salicylate sounds suspiciously similar to salicylic acid, and you would be right! Betaine salicylate is a chemical compound of salicylic acid and betaine. It promises to do what salicylic acid can do, but in a milder, gentler way, making it an awesome alternative not only for dry skinned folk but also people just getting started with chemical exfoliation. It is also the star ingredient in Beta Salic 2.0!
I avoided this essence for a long time because my previous experience with tea tree oil was in the form of a cleanser that was stinky and too harsh on my already parched skin. However, three months ago the now famous Banila & Co Clean it Zero cleanser brought on an acne storm the likes of which I’ve never experienced. I got through puberty with maybe a dozen zits and so the last couple of months have been a belated but zealous education in all things acne.
My skin is 90% back to its usual trouble-free self (shout out to C20 OST!), but a stubborn patch of closed comedones still occupies my right cheek. I’ve read enough to know I should probably be using α-hydroxy acids (AHAs), but between my vitamin C and retinal treatments, I wanted something simpler and decided to give this essence a go.
The Essence Continue reading